Palermo is a bewitching city with baroque palazzi, world-class food markets, and a tumultuous history. Paloma Worsley discovers the best places to dine, drink, and stay in Sicily’s dynamic capital.

Palermo, Sicily’s agricultural and cultural riches have made it a mecca for food enthusiasts. However, the city is most famous for its desserts, many of which migrated to the U.S. with Italians ...