Most of us love a good splash in the waves at the beach. Whether we're swimming, bodyboarding, surfing, or simply watching the waves break over our feet, it's the definition of summer (or winter ...

“Even after timing it carefully, waiting for a lull, letting a shorebreak wave expend itself, then running recklessly with your board over wet boulders, you sometimes didn’t make it to water ...

Toward the beach, waves will back off and reform into an extremely powerful shorebreak, growing thicker and bigger toward the western end and sometimes showcasing a hideously tempting left barrel.

Normal people get the wave of their lives here all the time. The Boom’s not exactly a shorebreak, but the waves do break relatively close to the beach. Two duck-dives and you’re in the lineup.